The way to replace the main gear in a garage door opener

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It is 6:00 AM and you are leaving for work. You press on the garage door opener wall button and hear a subtle hum but the door did not move. Main drive gear has neglected if your garage doors springs are intact opportunities are you garage door openers. It is easy to inspect your drive gears by removing the metal cover and unplugging your garage door opener. The primary drive gear is made of a white plastic that normally is the weak link in the opener. This gear to fail can be caused by lots of things. Some causes of wear are:

o Garage door out of balance (Springs broke or in need of alteration)
o Chain to a
o Excessive use or high cycle
o Factory defect or lack of grease at time of production

Replacing the large white gear is a low price, fast and easy do it yourself fix as long as you've got a few simple hand tools and follow the security precautions. These supplies are available online in a variety of degrees of components.

Before you get started it is very important to you to have a list of a small number of simple tools necessary to accomplish this job:
Hammer o
o 5/16" Socket or Nut Driver
o Flat Standard Screwdriver
~WARNING ~
To prevent possible SERIOUS INJURY as well as DEATH from electrocution, ALWAYS Disconnect the power cord from your garage door in the wall socket before carrying on with any inspection or repair.

Step #1
Be sure that your garage door opener is unplugged. This step insures that no one tries to open or shut the garage door while it is being worked on by you or you do not accidentally activate the door while servicing it.

Step #2
Disconnect the doorway from the outer trolley by pulling the reddish disconnect rope and manually close the garage door.

CAVEAT
The Garage door should maintain the completely closed position during inspection and all repairs.

Ensuring that the garage door is shut will reassure your door won't fall or make any move that startle you or would cause harm. We advocate that once the door is closed down making use of a vise grip or clamp above one of the rollers to prevent the door from being opened from the surface that you clamp the door.

Step #3
Slacken the chain or belts tension by losing the tension nut. Usually this is nut and could be adjusted using a 1/2" wrench.

Step #4
Take away the sprocket or belt pulley retainer cap. Usually this has a clip to the rear in it is going to release should you press.

Step #5
I always recommend marking the chain or belt to the sprocket's place before removing. This may certainly be finished with some other means, tape or white out. This measure helps assure that your chain or belt gets reinstalled in the right place and makes for easy and quick reference if needed. Take away belt or the chain in the sprocket then slide the inner trolley to the closed position until it engages the outer trolley. Set loose chain/belt around the end of the rail closest. I usually duct tape the chain to avoid it from falling to a floor and getting all filthy and twisted.

Step #6
It's now time to remove end covers and the primary housing. Remember to unplug the cable to the circuit board.

Step #7
Remove the drive gear for the limitations and the retaining clip. Additionally at this time take away by squeezing the sides below the mount by the drive gears. There is no need to disconnect the cables because it's OK to leave the cables are hung by by this limit assembly. Tend not to make any alterations to the limitation assembly screws, this will definitely insure that there is minimal adjustment needed to the limitations after you complete your repair and run your garage door opener.

Step #8's time to take away the RPM sensor this can be easily done by unplugging the wire harness and remove the RPM detector from the fastening tabs.

Step #9
Disconnect the blue, red and white wires in the motor. It is important that you note where these cables go. Precisely the same colour wires go to identical terminals in the capacitor crimson /red and blue /blue.

Step #10
Be sure before removing the last screw to prevent the motor to put your hand underneath the motor. Slide the motor assembly off area and the drive shaft in an area that is safe. (Not on top of the ladder for obvious reasons).

Step #11
Take away the three hex head screws holding the sprocket assembly to the principal chassis using a 5/16" nut driver or socket. Now it is the right time to determine should you'd like to replace the whole sprocket or the primary gear just or all chain drive models 1984 to present.

Step #12
Skip this step if you're replacing the entire gear and sprocket or pulley assembly.

Step #13
Remove and replace the worm gear. Generally it isn't necessary unless the worm gear shows signs of wear to replace it. If you wish to replace this gear eliminate the shaft collar using a 1/8" hex wrench. Please make sure you note the location of all of those parts as you disassemble to help you reinstall in proper arrangement. Only replace the components which are utilized in your garage door opener. Install the new worm gear making sure that the roll pin is properly seated in the brand new gear. Re-install other components in inverse sequence. After you complete this assembly I would recommend so that you don't forget, you lube the worm gear.

Step #14
Start reassembly in inverse arrangement. Be sure that grease is on each and every tooth and to completely lube the main drive gear. You can now install the RPM sensor and reconnect cables. Install end panels and the alloy cover, don't forget to plug in the circuit board and reconnect push button wires and picture eye.

Step #15
Reconnect the power cord to cycle and the opener the opener before the sprocket completes a cycle that is entire clockwise. The trolley have to be in the fully down position. Now you're able to take away the tape from the rail and reinstall the chain. The chain and sprocket reference mark needs to be close to lining up. Tighten the chain so the chain is 1/2" above the foot of the track at midpoint for "T" style rails and 1/4" for square tube rails.

WARNING
Notice testing and when adjusting your garage door motor it's not unimportant
to be sure no one is in the route of the moving door.

WARN
It is necessary to understand when testing your garage door opener it really is possible to over cycle the motor
And possess the motor briefly overheat and quit operating.
To avoid this try and not control the door opener more than 10 cycles
without giving it 5-10 minutes to cool off

Step #16
Now run evaluation and the opener to view if the door shuts to the location that is correct and opens to the right position. In the event you need to make adjustments use the travel adjustments twists to make fine adjustments. I recommend only making small adjustments 1/4 turn or less at a time. For benchmark one complete turn of the screw equals approx 2" of travel on 1/2 and 1/4 HP versions and 3" on 3/4 HP models.

Step #17
After you have your doors travel adjustment correct it is the right time to adjust the force. This is the pressure that it takes to assure your door opener will function safely. The first step in this process is to test the down force. Using the door open simply activate the garage door opener and when the door reaches the stage clasp the door in the underside and try and stop it. If the doorway is hard to cease or does not stop reduce the down force adjustment in small increments until force that is acceptable is reversed upon by it. The light starts to blink and if the door doesn't close raise the down force adjustment in small increments until the reversal can be checked by you at half way. Adjusting the force doesn't guarantee that the operator will turn on 1-1/2" object at the flooring. To find out more call the maker or on fixing the reversal in the floor see your owner's manual.